Baker Street Bag

Baker Street Bag




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Baker Street Bag

This fun bag design is shared with us from the January Designer Spotlight, Sara Lawson of Sew Sweetness. This small bag features inner topstitched pockets and a recessed zipper top closure. Use your favorite fabric print to stitch this bag up in a pleasant afternoon of sewing!

BEFORE YOU START

  • Read all instructions before beginning. 
  • All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise noted.
  • All pattern pieces include the seam allowance.
  • When printing pattern, be sure to check that the square at the bottom accurately measures 1" x 1", as noted.
  • All cutting measurements given throughout the pattern are length x height.
  • Use sticky notes to label your cut fabric pieces and easily stay organized.
  • Finished size is 12″ long x 8″ tall x 4″ deep.

SKILL LEVEL

Confident Beginner

TOOLS NEEDED

45mm Splash Rotary Cutter (RTY-2/C)
Rotary Cutting Mat
Scissors
Zipper foot
Iron
Pressing cloth
Disappearing ink fabric marker
Optional: Walking foot for sewing the Soft and Stable layers together
Optional: Denim needle, for sewing the bag layers together

MATERIALS

3/4 yd Exterior fabric
3/4 yd Lining fabric
1/2 yd By Annie’s Soft and Stable (Soft and Stable is a 1/8″ thick foam sew-in interfacing; another recommendation is automotive headliner fabric in place of the Soft and Stable. You can also substitute a needled fleece fusible interfacing for the Soft and Stable, such as Pellon #TP971F Thermolam Plus fusible interfacing)
2-1/2 yds Pellon SF-101 Shape Flex fusible woven interfacing (or medium-weight fusible interfacing)
12″ Zipper

STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS

Cut your fabric pieces in the order listed, so that you will have plenty of fabric for the bag. When printing pattern pieces, make sure to double check the square at the bottom of the page. It should meaure 1" x 1" when printed, so pieces print at correct size.

  1.  Using rotary cutter, ruler and rotary mat, cut the following from the exterior fabric:
    (2) straps at 36″ x 2-1/2”.
    (1) exterior side panel at 28-3/4″ x 5”.
    - (2) exterior main panels, using main panel pattern piece, cut on the fold. 
  2. From the lining fabric, cut:
    - (1) lining side panel at 28-3/4″ x 5”.
    - (2) lining main panels, using main panel pattern piece, cut on the fold.
    - (4) pockets, using the main panel pattern piece, folded down at the dotted line and cut on the fold.
    - (4) zipper panels at 10-1/2″ x 2″.
    - (1) zipper tab at 4″ x 2-1/2″.
  3. From the Soft and Stable, cut:
    - (1) exterior side panel at 28-3/4″ x 5”.
    - (2) exterior main panels, using the main panel pattern piece cut on the fold.
  4. From the Shape Flex, cut:
    - (2) straps at 36″ x 2-1/2″.
    - (1) lining side panel at 28-3/4″ x 5″.
    - (2) lining main panels, using main panel pattern piece cut on the fold.
    - (4) zipper panels at 10-1/2″ x 2″.
    - (1) zipper tab at 4″ x 2-1/2″.

ATTACH THE INTERFACING

  1. Place the exterior side panel with the wrong side of the fabric against the Soft and Stable. Pin in place. Baste around the outer edge of the fabric using a 1/8″ seam allowance. Repeat for the exterior main panels.
    - Helpful Hint: Gently pull the fabric taut as you baste it to the Soft and Stable for a tight, crisp finish. If you would like, machine quilt the Soft and Stable pieces at this time.
  2. Place the fusible (tacky) side of the Shape Flex against the wrong side of one strap. Fuse according to manufacturer instructions. Repeat for the remaining strap, lining side panel, lining main panels, zipper panels, and zipper tab.
    - Helpful Hint: To fuse Shape Flex, first place the strap face down, followed by the interfacing (tacky side down), then the pressing cloth. Lightly spritz the pressing cloth with water, then iron, overlapping each area, for approximately 10 seconds on each spot. When finished, it should be firmly attached to your fabric.

ASSEMBLE THE LINING POCKET

  1. Place two pocket pieces right sides together, then pin in place. Sew along the top edge only, using a 1/4″ seam allowance.  
  2. Press the seam open, then flip the fabrics so that they are wrong sides together. Press. Topstitch the finished edge of the pocket using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

  3. Align the pocket so that the bottom and side raw edges are even with the bottom and side raw edges of one lining main panel. Pin, then baste the raw edges using a 1/4″ seam allowance.  
  4. Finger press the lining main panel, vertically, to find the center line. Topstitch on the top of the crease, directly on top of the pocket only. This will create a divider in the pocket.   

  5. Repeat steps 1-4 for the remaining pockets and lining main panel.

ATTACH THE ZIPPER PANEL

  1. Place one of the zipper panel pieces in front of you, right side facing you, with the long edge aligned horizontally. Take you zipper and place it right side down and 1/2″ in from one short end, with one long edge even with the top long edge of the zipper panel. Pin in place. Put the zipper foot on. Start sewing and stop sewing 1/2″ in from each short end of the zipper panel, 1/4″ away from the zipper teeth.

  2. Place a second zipper panel, with the right side facing you. It should be aligned with the zipper panel that you just attached to the zipper in the previous step, right sides together. Pin the top edge to the zipper panel. Sew directly on top of the stitching that you used to secure the zipper in the previous step. 

     

  3. Flip the zipper panels so that they are wrong sides together. Press the seam toward the zipper panel. Fold one short edge of the top zipper panel in 1/4″ and press. Repeat for the remaining short edge. Fold the long edge opposite the zipper in 1/4″ and press. Repeat for the remaining zipper panel, then pin the pressed edges together. 

     

  4. With a 1/8″ seam allowance, topstitch on top of all three pressed edges of the zipper panel. This will completely enclose all the raw edge. Also topstitch 1/8″ away from the zipper tape. 

     

  5. Repeat steps 1-4 for the remaining edge of the zipper, and the zipper panels that you have left. 

     

  6. Take out the zipper tab. Press in half, wrong sides together, so that both 2-1/2″ edges meet. Open back out, then fold the fold edge to the crease, then the bottom to the crease, and press again. You should have created a tiny piece of double-fold tape. 

     

  7. Press both 4″ edges toward the wrong side by 1/4″. 

     

  8. Re-fold the zipper tab along the creases that you pressed in step 6, so that all raw edges are enclosed. Slide the loose end of your zipper into the opening of the zipper tab until it hits the crease. Pin in place. 

     

  9. Sew along all four edges of the zipper tab using a 1/8″ seam allowance. 

     

  10. Take out one lining main panel. Measure down 1-1/2″ from the top of the lining main panel and draw a horizontal line straight across. 

     

  11. Place the assembled zipper panel (right side of the zipper facing down), with one long exterior edge along that line and centered. Pin and sew on top of the zipper panel with a 1/8″ seam allowance. 

     

  12. Repeat steps 10-11 with the remaining lining main panel and the other half of the zipper panel. 

     

MAKE THE STRAPS

  1. Press the strap in half along the long edge, wrong sides together, so that both edges meet. Press. Fold the top of the fabric down to the crease. Open out again, then fold the other edge in to meet the crease and press. Fold the entire piece along the first fold and press. You should have created a tiny piece of double-fold tape. 

  2. Topstitch along both long edges, 1/8″ from each edge.
  3. Make a mark on one exterior main panel that is in 2″ from the left-hand top edge, and another that is in 2″ from the right-hand top edge.
  4. Place the raw edges of the strap to the inside of each mark that you made, and slightly angle outward. Baste in place using a 1/8″ seam allowance and again with 1/16″ seam allowance. Test the bag on you shoulder to make sure that it is a favorable length. If not, unpick the basting stitches on one end, trim to the preferable length, and re-baste. 

     

  5. Repeat steps 1-4 for the remaining strap and exterior main panel.

FINISH THE BAG

  1. Fold the exterior side panel in half along the short edge (so you’ll cut both ends of the panel at the same time). On the right edge, make a mark 9″ down from the short raw edge, and make a mark that is in 1″ from that raw edge. Connect the two marks that you made with a diagonal line. Repeat for the left edge. 

  2. Cut along the lines on the right and left sides. Discard the small scraps. Re-baste the fabric using a 1/8″ seam. 

     

  3. Place the exterior main panel right side facing you. Place the short edge of the exterior side panel at the top of the exterior main panel, right sides facing.
  4. Begin pinning the exterior side panel to the curved edge of the exterior main panel, easing it along. Continue until you reach the opposite top edge of the exterior main panel. Notch both curved edges about 1/4″ high, which will help you sew the side panel without puckers in the next step.
    - Helpful Hint: You may find it easier to distribute the fabric of the side panel if you find the center point for both the side panel and the exterior main panel and begin pinning there. Also, it is helpful to clip the curved edges, about 1/4″ high, to spread the side panel fabric apart as you sew the curves. Pinking shears also work well here. 

     

  5. Sew along the pinned edge. Notch (cut small v’s) the curved edges.
  6. Repeat steps 3-5 to attach the remaining exterior main panel to the other long edge of the exterior side panel. 

     

  7. Repeat steps 1-6 for the respective lining pieces, except leave an 8″ opening on the bottom. (It is helpful to unzip the zipper first.) 

     

  8. Turn the bag right side out. Slide the lining over the bag so that they are right sides together. Align the top edges, making sure to also line up the side seams. Pin in place. Stitch all along the top edge of the bag. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4″.

     

  9. Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the lining. Press. Topstitch the top edge of the bag using a 1/4″ seam allowance. 

     

  10. Either slipstitch the opening in the lining closed, or topstitch the opening using a 1/8″ seam allowance.
  11. Congratulations, you’ve finished!

Need help with this project? You can email Sara at sara@sewsweetness.com. You can also add an image of your finished bag to Sara’s Flickr group (http://www.flickr.com/groups/sewsweetness/) or tag your finished bag on Instagram or Twitter using hashtag #bakerstreetbag #sewsweetnesspattern and #olfacreates

 

Bag design by Sara Lawson.
January, 2015

For personal, non-commercial use only. 

Baker Street Bag