Ombre Table Runner
Ombre Table Runner
Varied shades of aqua and subtle shifts in whites and creams add a playful, yet sophisticated quality to this table runner, created by the June Spotlight Designer, Patty Sloniger. Patty used all Cotton Couture solids to create this ombre effect, but thinks it would be just as interesting using printed fabrics. In fact, this pattern lends itself to scrappy as the pieces used to make the chevron shapes are relatively small, and the lighter background pieces would be fabulous with scraps of different low volume prints.
BEFORE YOU START
- Using instructions and measurements below, finished size of the table runner is 13-1/2″ x 45-1/2″.
- For small fabric pieces, bypass the large ironing board and keep a small tabletop ironing board nearby.
- Block out a set amount of time to work on this project. It doesn’t have to be finished in one session. Keep yourself fresh by blocking out 30 minutes at a time.
- Since there are varied shades of whites and creams, the instructions will refer to them as “Neutrals” and the aqua/teal varied fabrics as “Colors”. See color diagram to see which Neutrals to pair together with Colors for each pair of blocks.
1/2 yd. bright white fabric
Fat Eighth off-white fabric
Fat Eighth cream fabric
1/4 yd. lime fabric for binding
Fat Eighth peach fabric (contrast fabric)
5” x 10” piece for each of 5 varying shades of aqua/teal, from light to dark (great for scraps)
2/3 yd. backing fabric
- Using a rotary cutter, mat, and ruler, cut the following:
Bright white: Cut (4) 3″ x WOF strips. Set two aside and sub-cut the remaining strips into (2) 3″ x 13-1/2″ strips, (4) 2-1/2″ squares, and (4) 2-1/4″ squares. Mark squares with a diagonal line on the wrong side, from corner to corner.
Off white: Cut (4) 5″ squares and (8) 2-1/4″ squares. Mark all with a diagonal line on the wrong side, from corner to corner.
Cream: Cut (4) 5″ squares and (8) 2-1/4″ squares. Mark all with a diagonal line on the wrong side, from corner to corner.
Peach: Cut (4) 2-1/2″ x 4-1/2″ rectangles and (4) 2-1/2″ squares.
Four darker shades of aqua/teal: Cut (2) 5″ squares from each shade.
Lightest shade of aqua/teal: Cut (2) 4-1/2″ squares. Mark with a diagonal line on the wrong side, from corner to corner.
Lime binding: Cut (4) 2-1/4″ x WOF strips, sewn end to end to form one lone strip.
Backing: Cut in half vertically to make (2) 21″ x 24″ pieces. Then sew together along the 21″ side to form one 21″ x 48″ piece. There will be some extra width.
- Make 8 mirrored pairs of Block A. Begin by placing one colored 5″ square right sides together with one neutral which should have a diagonal line drawn on it. Sew a parallel line of stitches 1/4” on either side of the diagonal line and trim on the line.
You should now have two separate half square triangle blocks.
- Press open and trim down to exactly 4.5” square. This is done very easily with a 4.5” square ruler and a rotating cutting mat, but you can use a rectangular ruler and standard cutting mat as well.
- Line up one 2-1/4” neutral or white square on the corner of the colored half of each half-square triangle, right sides together, and sew on the diagonal line. Trim and press open.
- Sew matching pairs together.
- Make 2 mirrored pairs of Block B. For each pair, place one 2-1/2” white square on top of a 2-1/2” x 4-1/2” peach rectangle and sew on the diagonal line. Trim and press open.
Repeat with the white square in the opposite corner of the next peach rectangle.
- Line up a 2-1/2” peach square with the white triangle corner of the piece you just sewed and stitch along the width of just the peach square. Press open.
The pair should look like this.
- Place right sides together with one 4-1/2” square of the lightest colored fabric oriented as shown, and sew on the diagonal line. Trim and press open.
Orientation for both blocks of each mirrored pair is shown below.
- Line up a 2-1/4" neutral square in the colored corner of the block and sew on the diagonal line. Trim and press open.
- Sew each mirrored pair together.
- Sew the pairs together in rows as shown in the quilt assembly diagram, below.
- Sew on white borders; first the long sides, then short.
- Quilt and bind as desired.
Project design by Patty Sloniger.
For personal, non-commercial use only.